Estimated at £60,000-80,000, a splendid Art Nouveau jewel by the New York firm Marcus & Co took £130,000 at Bonhams (27.5/25% buyer’s premium) on June 13.
It was one of many fine antique and period jewels selling well in the London Jewels sale that featured pieces from several private collections.
Confident style
Marcus & Co developed a bold, confident style of design, creating sculptural, colourful jewels, representative of the naturalistic joy of the Art Nouveau period.
This example carefully rendered colourful iridescent enamel and millegrain-set with old-brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, accented by circular-cut emeralds, rubies and sapphires, was made c.1895, not long before the death of company founder Herman Marcus (1828-99).
The design drawing of this jewel in its original form as a pendant (it now has later fittings to be used as a brooch) is pictured among the eight volumes of pen and watercolour designs from the firm of Jaques and Marcus (later Marcus and Co) c.1890-1910 owned by the Dartmouth Library, New Hampshire. It can be viewed online as part of the library’s digital archive.
The pearl drop to this jewel is thought to be a later replacement but it is a natural saltwater gemstone weighing just over 13ct.
Revivalist group
Egyptian revival gold scarab bracelet, c.1870, attributed to Ernesto Pierret, £22,000 at Bonhams.
A group of jewels by Castellani and other Italian revivalists included an Egyptian-style bracelet attributed to Ernesto Pierret (1824-98). He operated from a Renaissance palazzo at 20 Piazza di Spagna, next to the Spanish Steps (renamed Palazzo Pierret, his name can still be seen above the entrance) but it is probable he has apprenticed in the Castellani workshop as his work is close in both style, subject matter and technical details.
This bracelet, c.1870, is composed of four sculptural, engraved, swivelling scarab beetles connected via arched cylindrical baton links. Each scarab, symbol of the cycle of birth, life, death and resurrection, has a glazed locket compartment to the reverse.
Demonstrating the similarity in style between master and apprentice, a bangle featuring carved carnelian scarabs and similar links marked for Pierret is pictured in Geoffrey Munn’s Castellani and Giuliano: Revivalist Jewellers of the 19th Century (1984) while a similar bangle stamped for Castellani is shown in the catalogue for the US travelling exhibition Castellani and Italian Archaeological Jewelry (2004-05).
This unmarked bracelet at Bonhams was being offered from outside of the UK and subject to import VAT if 5% on the hammer price. Nonetheless, it improved on its guide of £12,000-15,000 to hammer at £22,000.
Castellani agate cameo and gem-set Eros and Psyche pendant, c.1870, £10,000 at Bonhams.
